127 Hours of the “Top of Utah”
Day One: Bear Lake Holiday
Bear Lake is often called “Caribbean of the Rockies” for its intense turquoise blue water. As you catch your first glimpse of the lake, you’ll marvel at its striking color and while sitting on one of its many white, sandy beaches, imagine you’re on your own little island.
Bear Lake straddles the Utah/Idaho state line and, as tranquil as the setting is, the lake and the surrounding area has lots of great outdoor activities and adventures. On the water, jet skis and waverunners are popular fun on the lake. They can be rented at locations in Garden City and Paris, Idaho – some right on the beach. If non-motorized is your preference sailing on scenic Bear Lake has always been a popular spot to unfurl the canvas, since a gentle breeze usually rolls off the lake in the early afternoons. Glide on the lake in a sailboat or kayak and take in a spectacular sunset. Seven boat ramps are located around the lake to make launching your boat a breeze. Bear Lake State Park Marina has 305 boat slips and a 5-lane boat ramp, while Idaho’s North Beach has two boat unloading ramps and sandy beaches. Of course, water-skiing is one of the favorite sports on the lake. And don’t worry about riding across the wake of another boat. Plenty of room and no crowds!
On the shore there are plenty of options for trail users – hikers and cyclists. Here’s a partial list:
Eco Tours provides wildlife tours and hikes in the surrounding Bear Lake valley. (435) 946-8830 or (435) 757-6377.
The Bear Trail
A 4.2 mile paved trail from Harbor Village to Ideal Beach.
Swan Creek
A 4.5 mile loop trail, accessed off of US 89, from Lakota, just north of Garden City.
Bear Lake Summit/Meadowville
A 15.5 mile one-way trail, accessed via the Bear Lake summit or Meadowville.
Randolph/Crawford
Note the numerous mine shafts along the east face of the Crawford Mountains.
St. Charles Canyon
At the top, visit the Minnetonka Cave, a nine-room cave full of stalactites, stalagmites and banded travertine. Guided tours available during the summer. Limber Pine Trail
A relaxing one mile loop to the 2,000 year old limber pine.
Great Western Trail
Extends from Arizona to the Canadian border. The trail passes through the Wasatch/Cache National Forest at the Bear Lake area.
Bloomington Lake Trail
Hike or drive via a rough, unpaved road. This small glacial lake is located in a spectacular setting of cliffs and waterfalls. During the summer, wildflowers abound.
Highline Trail
A 55-mile trail accessible from Bloomington Canyon, Paris Canyon, Emigration Canyon and Logan Canyon. Open to hiking, horseback riding, motor bikes and mountain bikes.
Day Two: Hiking Adventures in Logan Canyon
Recently designated a National Scenic Byway, Logan Canyon rightly deserves the honor. Mile-high vertical limestone cliffs tower above the route. Dense forest, the winding Logan River, and mountain wildlife add to the picturesque drive, which ends at the turquoise waters of Bear Lake. The Byway is lined with camping, picnicking, and fishing areas in the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. A 7-mile jaunt off the highway leads to Tony Grove Lake, which is dotted with an eye-boggling display of wildflowers during summer months.
Tony Grove is located a short drive off the Logan Canyon road at an elevation of 8100 feet. The campground is situated on the mountainside above beautiful Tony Grove Lake about 19 miles east of Logan. Engelmann spruce, white pines, and aspens cover the site, offering plentiful shade, and lush meadows burst with vivid summer wildflowers. Tony Grove Lake provides great fishing, canoeing, kayaking and stunning scenery. A picnic area is on the eastern shore. A nature trail, with signs describing the natural features of the area, encircles the lake.
Numerous hiking trails set off from the day-use site at the lake, accessing the Mount Naomi Wilderness, including the popular 4.5-mile (one-way) White Pine Lake Trail.
44,964 acre Mount Naomi Wilderness rises to 9,980 feet, at the summit of Mount Naomi. The western side of the wilderness consists of deep and scenic canyons, which open up into large meadows, carpeted with wildflowers in the summer – Indian paintbrush, lupine, columbine, balsamroot, and dozens more all washing the mountainsides with color.
The alpine scenery of this wilderness is considered some of the most spectacular in the Rockies, with both unique floral species and an abundance of wildlife, including moose, elk, deer, and beaver. The High Creek- Mount Naomi Peak National Recreation Trail can be accessed either from the Tony Grove or the High Creek Trailheads.
From the Tony Grove Backcountry Trailhead there are a number of options for the hiker or equestrian. A trail leads north to White Pine Lake, south past a number of ponds and springs, and northeast (# 005) to Mount Naomi on the Mount Naomi Peak National Recreation Trail.
The scenery on the hike to White Pine Lake is absolutely beautiful. The wildflowers are at their peak around the beginning of August, but the route is thoroughly enjoyable at any time of the season. The trail winds through several open meadows and groves of pine and spruce along the way.
From Tony Grove Lake, the trail climbs uphill at a fairly gradual grade for about 1/4 mile. When you reach the junction with the Naomi Peak Trail, turn right and continue climbing for another two miles. This is the highest part of the trail, about 775 feet above the trailhead. The trail descends into the White Pine Basin. To the west in view is Mt. Magog and the lake is just beyond and to the north, although not yet visible from the trail. White Pine Lake sits between Mt. Magog and Mt. Gog. The lake and surrounding area are breathtaking and the view alone is worth the relatively moderate effort!
The hike to Naomi Peak, although more challenging, is none less rewarding for the panoramic vistas at the summit. Near the eastern boundary of the wilderness and at nearly 10,000 feet, Naomi Peak is the area’s highest point, although this mountainous country contains several other peaks towering above 9,000 feet. On the western side, there are many deep, scenic canyons. Fields of wildflowers carpet the large mountain meadows during summer blooms, and several varieties are unique to this region. You’ll again be likely to spot large populations of moose, elk, and deer, and also beavers that are well established in several streams. From the summit, with binoculars and on a clear day, several distant mountain ranges can be viewed including the Teton’s in Wyoming and the Uintah’s in eastern Utah.
Day Three: Rock Climbing in Logan Canyon
Many climbers make a pilgrimage to Logan Canyon for the abundant vertical and overhanging limestone and quartzite faces, and for the steepness and quality of rock. With cliffs primarily facing north and south, climbers can choose sun or shade. Mild weather, low humidity, and little rain offer excellent climbing opportunities during spring, summer, and fall. More than 275 routes have been developed and approximately 230 are bolt-protected sport climbs. The remaining routes require placing natural protection. Most climbs are in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. Climbers must be respectful of restrictions designed to protect five sensitive plant species including Maguire’s Primrose, a flower found only in Logan Canyon.
There’s a good mix of bolted sport and trad routes in the canyon with an impressive range of difficulty. For the experienced and dedicated climber, The Cliffs of Insanity requires a steep 15-minute hike but the rewards are lots of advanced limestone routes and abundant solitude. If you’re feeling extra ambitious, make the 40-minute hike to Crag in the Sky deep in the canyon with some great 5.10-5.13 routes. You’re almost guaranteed a quiet, shady day of intense climbing.
The First and Second Practice Walls are great beginner or warm-up areas. If you’re looking for a good first lead, check out The Lost Bolt at First Practice Wall, the best 5.7 in the canyon. Second Practice Wall is all top roped, with routes rated as low as 5.4, making it the safest and easiest spot for beginners and kids. Fucoidal Quartzite is another great spot with a variety of climbs for all levels.
You can spend all day climbing in Logan Canyon, but if you want a diversion from the crag, try the hike to the Wind Caves with views of the famous China Wall. Another option is an excursion to the Jardine Juniper, discovered in 1923 and one of the largest juniper trees in existence. Measuring over 26 feet in circumference and 44 feet high, it has watched over Cottonwood Creek in Logan Canyon for nearly 1,500 years. Although the tree is fenced for its protection, you can hike 11+ miles roundtrip to view it by following a trail starting at the Wood Camp trailhead, 10 miles up Logan Canyon National Scenic Byway. If you’d rather pedal on up on your mountain bike, the trail is a classic intermediate technical singletrack. It’s a fairly strenuous climb of 1850 vertical feet to an elevation of 7200 in slightly less than six miles to view one of Mother Nature’s truly magnificent masterpieces.
Day Four: Cache Valley Pedaling and Paddling
Pastoral farmlands, fields and migratory bird habitat are the environment of the city of Logan and Cache Valley. Several major road cycling events and races are staged here annually, including the MS100, Cache Classic, Little Red Riding Hood and LOTOJA, the one-day, 206-mile grueling ride from Logan to Jackson, Wyoming over three mountain passes. No wonder Cache Valley is the frequent destination for serious skinny tire enthusiasts looking for quality riding.
Anything in the north end of the valley is fantastic: Preston, Weston, Dayton, Egypt, Lewiston, Cove and Cornish and every little farm road in between. South valley is as good – the Little Pyrenees ride has great views, rolling hills and a dam crossing at Hyrum Reservoir, dam fun the locals say. And don’t resist continuing on up Blacksmith Fork Canyon all the way to historic Hardware Ranch. Moving to the west side, riding around the Wellsville Mountains and Sardine Canyon is exhilarating. To complete the compass, pedaling up Logan Canyon on the east side is tough yet rewarding. Remember, what goes up comes down.
For fat tire aficionados, there are plenty of mountain bike singletrack trails and fire roads for both super heroes and weekend warriors. The technical, steep Steam Mill Lake ride is 6.2 miles one way. Look for the $40,000 in gold coins rumored to be stashed by the bandits that robbed a Wells Fargo stage around the turn of the century. Cowley Canyon/Logan Peak is long, steep and for one of those super heroes who really want to suffer to enjoy the view from the top. If you ride the Right Hand Fork route, stop along the way and pay your respects to Old Ephraim, the giant grizzly bear buried here. Easy rides are here too – the River Trail has five entry/exit points along the 3.7 miles (one way) so you can tailor your fun to time allowed. Green Canyon from North Logan on a dirt/gravel road is especially scenic in the spring and fall.
Cache Valley Tourism in Logan has an excellent cycling guide for both road and mountain bike. Free, and worth every penny.
Time to stash the pedals and pick up the paddles. The Bear River and the Wetlands Maze in Cutler Marsh are right off the main drag. But you’d never know it once you’re in your canoe or kayak. The only sounds you’ll hear as you glide along placid waters are from the dozens of varieties of shorebirds, songbirds and denizens of the wetlands - American Coots, grebes, ducks, and geese. Near the western shore of the marsh, look for Sandhill Cranes, Ring-necked Pheasants, Long-billed Curlews (in migration), Northern Harriers, and Short-eared Owls.
The Cutler Marsh Wetlands Maze area has canoe routes that are marked and unmarked. To follow a marked trail, watch floating buoys: white bowling pins with two orange stripes. Here are two:
Logan River Canoe Trail
From Cutler Marsh Marina go south a few hundred yards, then follow the moving water east and upstream to eventually enter the Logan River (also marked by buoys). Paddle several miles upstream against the slow moving water. The habitat changes gradually from emergent marsh to riparian, with evidence of beaver and occasional deer. Songbirds you may observe include Eastern Kingbird and Willow Flycatcher, but also watch for Black-crowned Night Herons perched in the lower tree branches hunting for fish, as well as large numbers of Snowy Egrets during mid-late summer.
Ibis Rookery Canoe Trail
Branch northeast from the North Marsh Trail and cross the open waters of the reservoir to find several rookeries on the eastern side of the marsh. In spring and early summer you’ll see hundreds of White-faced Ibis and Franklin’s Gulls flying about, secure from land -based predators. A little south of this rookery, look among the cattails and bulrush in the evenings for Cattle and Snowy Egrets standing above their nests, but please stay a good distance away from nesting birds. The same goes for the Great Blue Heron rookery on the Spring Creek Rookery Canoe Trail. This rookery was first documented in 1947 and has over 75 nests.
Day 5: City of Rocks National Reserve
A two hour drive from Brigham City leads you to the fantastic City of Rocks National Reserve, just north of the Utah/Idaho state line. Nestled amidst the mountain peaks of the Albion Mountain Range, spectacular granite rock formations, pinyon/juniper tree stands and alpine meadows, the Reserve presents an inspirational landscape. Recreational activities include hiking, wildlife viewing, picnicking, rock climbing, backpacking, photography and horseback riding. The City of Rocks Visitor Center is located in nearby Almo.
This unique geologic area became a landmark in 1843 for California bound emigrants. Several granite pinnacles and monoliths are in excess of sixty stories tall and 2.5 billion years old. The smooth granite faces found in the Reserve and in the adjacent Castle Rocks State Park offer some of the most exceptional rock climbing in the country.
Climbing
City of Rocks is one of the finest granite-face climbing sites anywhere. About 700 routes have been developed to date. One hundred to 300-foot spires provide most of the climbing opportunities, although there are 600-foot spires that provide advanced adventures. Privately published climbing guides, available for sale at Reserve headquarters, are the best source of information for the serious climber. Check at headquarters for climbing restrictions. The City of Rocks area was an important landmark on the California Trail. Pioneer diaries from 1843 on describe the rocks in vivid detail as “a city of tall spires,” “steeple rocks” and a display of “all manner of fantastic shapes.”
For beginners, The Climbing Experience Program offers visitors an introduction to the experience of climbing outdoors in a supervised setting. Trained and experienced employees lead first-timers on fun easy routes to learn and enjoy the Reserve’s most popular recreation activity.
The Climbing Experience Program is not a guiding or outfitting operation. The program is intended for beginners or inexperienced visitors. The program is not intended to be a class or workshop instruction, but participants will be exposed to concepts, techniques, and equipment that becomes an excellent introduction to formal climbing instruction.
Visitors interested in participating in the Climbing Experience Program can make a reservation by calling the City of Rocks visitor center at (208) 824-5901. Walk-ins are welcome.
Bird Watching
City of Rocks offers excellent birding opportunities in the Basin and Range province. Birding hotspots include: Indian Grove, North Fork Circle Creek, Window Rock, and Emery Pass Picnic Area. Highlights include: Pinyon Jay, Golden Eagle, Common Poorwill, Olive-sided and Gray Flycatchers, Rock and Canyon Wrens, Mountain Bluebird, Virginia’s Warbler, Green-tailed Towhee, and Brewer’s Sparrow.
Hiking, Mountain Biking, Horseback Riding
The way to best experience the City of Rocks backcountry are by foot, on a bike or by horse. The Reserve has over 22 miles of designated trails and 13 named routes ranging from easy to moderate to advanced. One of these is the strenuous 5-mile North Fork Circle Creek Trail. Solitude is at a premium as you hike along North Fork Circle Creek. From sagebrush flats to high country aspen groves, this trail takes you deep into the “City.” Lost Horizons Arch of the Shangri La formation is the largest natural arch in the Reserve, and is a highlight of the hike. This trail also provides access to Indian Grove Trail (additional 2 miles) and several panoramic vistas.
Lodging, restaurants, gear rental and services are available in Garden City (Bear Lake), Logan and Brigham City.
BearLake.org
VisitCache.com
BoxElderCounty.org
TopofUtah.org